Elizabeth Mistry finds plenty to do in the historical British town of Durham

As the East Coast Service that runs from London to Edinburgh pulls into Durham, the view of the Cathedral, silhouetted against an afternoon sky causes everyone in the carriage to look up and pause to admire it. Someone nearby says to his neighbour “I always mean to get out one day and see what Durham is actually like.”  But I miss the reply because, for once, I am collecting my bag and moving towards the door. This time I am not wizzing through to Newcastle or the Scots capital – I’m going to see Durham – one of England ’s smallest cities – for myself.Legend has it that Durham was founded almost nine centuries ago when the body of Saint Cuthbert found its way to a site near the present day Cathedral. After years of searching for a safe and dignified resting place away from the ravages of the Vikings, the monks in his retinue must have been delighted by the setting, a virtual island formed by the River Wear blessed with fine views towards the coast on one side and the stark beauty of the North Pennines on the other.Today’s visitor can still enjoy the scenery but with more than 900 years worth of history under its belt, the town is now a pleasant combination of the old and the new having undergone some remarkable changes that Cuthbert’s bearers would be hard pressed to recognise – athough they might appreciate the moving sculpture of them in the main square.Today Cuthbert’s simple tomb in the magnificent Romanesque Cathedral and the Castle built by William the Conqueror are still the most popular sites for both modern day pilgrims and visitors.  Together they form North East England’s first Unesco World Heritage Sight and architecture and history lovers could easily spend a day exploring both, marvelling at the huge candy-stripe columns supporting the rare vaulting of the cathedral roof as well as one of the oldest working kitchens in the country – still serving hungry students centuries after the giants spits were first turned. And the city is thriving culturally.  Throughout the year there are a plethora of festivals and events with some, such as The Mystery Plays tracing their origins back many hundreds of years.  The Mystery Plays, which were revived to critical acclaim earlier this year, are traditionally a series of short playlets recreating scenes from the bible.   But for twenty-first century audiences, the lost works has been ambitiously reimagined in a collaboration between a number of well-known writers, many with a connection to the area, and locals who, in keeping with the tradition also take the main roles.  It is a real celebration of a community that stretches beyond the city itself - to other parts of the county known as the Land of the Prince Bishops.Plans are already afoot to restage the cycle in 2013 but in the meantime anyone wanting a taste of another regional speciality should head for the unique Miners’ Gala (pronounced Gay-la) which takes place every July and is still, years after the last coal pits in the area closed, reputed to be the largest gathering of its type in the world.Part cultural day out, with traditional brass music and part political gathering, the Gala attracts a wide audience as well as many locals who still see it as an intrinsic part of their heritage.Given its small size, the heart of the city is best navigated on foot.  Anyone with wheels may find the hill (where the Cathedral and Castle are to be found) a bit of a challenge - as is finding a step free way down to the riverbank where, even when the streets above are busy there is always a shady spot for a picnic to be found.Another excellent picnic spot can be found in the gardens at Crook Hall on the edge of the city. About 10 minutes from the pedestrian river bridge is a one of Durham ’s hidden gems.  Crook Hall itself is a beautifully preserved medieval house surrounded by a delightful series of interconnecting themed gardens.  The Cathedral Garden overlooks, naturally, the city’s most famous landmark.  The Shakespeare Garden is planted with plants that are connected to some of the playwright’s most famous works, eglantine, quince and careful planting means there is always something to see whatever the time of year. Probably the best time to see the orchard is in late Spring when the delicate flowers turn the space into a veritable bower, but the magic of Crook is that it changes with the seasons.  If it is too cold to enjoy one of their delicious cream teas in the little courtyard there is plenty of room inside where owner Maggie leads tours which include her stories about the resident ghosts.  If you are lucky enough to visit when her father-in-law, Harry, is  around (look out for him at the gate of tending the observation platform he built in the middle of the maze), he’ll treat you to some pretty good tales too.Later in the year there are candlelit visits and special events for children who will love the maze and the endless possibilities for hide and seek in the two walled gardens.And if cream teas seem a bit indulgent, there is plenty of good local fare on offer at Oldfields restaurant back in the city centre.  Working with producers from across the region, owner Bill Oldfield is doing his best to support the resurgence in locally-grown food.  Local meats and cheeses such as Durham Cow Blue are particularly recommended.

GETTING THERE:Elizabeth Mistry travelled with East Coast Trains (08457 225225  www.eastcoast.co.uk) which offers direct routes to Durham from Edinburgh and LondonStandard advance returns, booked online, from London to Durham start from £24.00

Plan your journey online at The Train Line

Travel from Kings Cross to Durham in just over 3 hours 

TOP TIP:If travelling by train, to enjoy the best views of the city on arrival it is worth asking for a seat on the right hand side of the train if coming from the south or the left if arriving from the north.The station is about 1 mile from the city centre up a steep hill.WHERE TO STAYThe Radisson Blu nestles on a lovely bend of the river Wear and offers beautiful views of the Cathedral and the old city of Durham and close to cultural attractions and shopping.

This sleek hotel and with a state of the art gym, a good-sized swimming,pool and babysitting services (must book in advance) this is a particularly good option for families.

Rooms start from from £99.00 including breakfast. 

More information from thisisdurham.com

Durham, small but perfectly formed

Five out-of-the-ordinary summer music experiences that are only a ferry ride away!

You might have rocked out at Reading and grooved at Glastonbury – but have you ever crossed the sea to strut your stuff in Stradbally? Although the festival circuit in the mainland UK has plenty to offer, for the most unique and quirky parties, you’ll need to catch a ferry.

As well as the options that ferry travel opens, it’s the best way to travel to the hottest summer parties: you’re not at the mercy of trains or buses, you can take as much camping gear as you want – and you can combine your festival with an overseas holiday exploring a new destination by car.

If you love music – and love travelling at your own pace – ferries are the way forward for the festival experience.

MAIN SQUARE FESTIVAL

Where: Arras, France (Hotels in Arras)When: 2nd – 4th July

Just an hour’s drive from the port of Calais, the venerable market town of Arras is famous for its cloth, its wartime history and its annual music festival, which sees the town square transform into a vast concert venue for three days on the trot. Previous acts have included Coldplay, Kanye West and Kaiser Chiefs: this year’s billing includes Black Eyed Peas, Pearl Jam, Pink and Gossip. As well as three-day tickets for the whole festival (you can camp outside town from just €5 per night), one-day tickets are available for each day’s performances if you’re just passing through.

While you’re there: check out the belfry of the town hall and the old citadel - both UNESCO world heritage sites – and the First World War tunnels at the Carrière Wellington museum.

Getting there: P&O Ferries operates on the Dover to Calais route

ROSKILDE FESTIVAL

Where: Roskilde, Denmark (Hotels in Roskilde)When: 1st-4th July

One of Europe’s largest and longest-running festivals, this event takes place outside the ancient town of Roskilde on Denmark’s Isle of Zealand. It’s hosted everyone from Bob Marley to the Sex Pistols and David Bowie; this year, look out for Muse, Japandroids, Florence and the Machine and Motorhead as well as a strong lineup of Scandinavian bands. There’s plenty of other entertainment as well: expect art installations, film screenings, a skating rink and rock-climbing walls.

While you’re there: check out the 11th-century longboats at Roskilde’s Viking Ships Museum and chill out on Zealand’s world-class sandy beaches.

Getting there: your journey to Roskilde will be half the adventure: DFDS Seaways operates an overnight crossing from Harwich to Esbjerg; from there, it’s a scenic drive across Denmark that includes the spectacular Great Belt Bridge to Zealand.

NORTH SEA JAZZ FESTIVAL

Where: Rotterdam, Netherlands (Hotels in Rotterdam)When: 9th-11th July

If you love your jazz, there’s no better place in the world to be this July than Rotterdam. The three-day North Sea Jazz Festival is considered the world’s biggest: a huge celebration of global jazz music that’s counted Dizzy Gillespie, Miles Davis and Benny Goodman among its acts in the past.  Last year saw 70,000 people visit the festival’s fifteen stages to hear everything from New Orleans jazz to blues and bebop, participate in music workshops and check out the exhibitions of jazz-themed art, photography and cinema.

While you’re there: when you’re done checking out Rotterdam’s architecture and modern art museums, it’s a short drive to the splendour of Amsterdam and Utrecht.

Getting there: DFDS sails from Newcastle to Amsterdam

ELECTRIC PICNIC

Where: Stradbally, Ireland (Hotels in Stradbally)When: 4th-6th September

Held on an idyllic country estate south of Dublin, this medium-sized event punches well above its weight; although there’s only room for 35,000 revellers, it’s described as Ireland’s version of Glastonbury. Featuring several stages as well as a 24-hour cinema tent, a Body and Soul wellness arena and an International Comedy Tent, Electric Picnic is as renowned for its eco-friendly outlook as it is for its artists. This year’s bill includes Basement Jaxx, Alabama 3, Bat For Lashes, Flaming Lips and The Wailers.

While you’re there: take a detour to Dublin to sample a Guinness direct from the sources, marvel at the Book of Kells and enjoy the city’s famous hospitality.

Getting there: sail to Dublin from Holyhead with Irish Ferries

BESTIVAL

Where: Isle of Wight, UK (Hotels in the Isle of Wight)When: 9th-12th September

Round off your festival season back in the UK with one of Europe’s most talked-about and flamboyant festivals: Bestival, held at the scenic Robin Hill country park on the Isle of Wight, is an experience not to be missed. As well as a range of outlandish, family-friendly attractions including The Castle in the Sky Bonfire Extravaganza, sculpture garden and a solar-powered bandstand, you can expect to enjoy acts including Dizzee Rascal, Flaming Lips, Gil Scott Heron… and Rolf Harris. Bestival goers this year are in for a treat with the legendary Sir Paul McCartney headlining the Main Stage on Sunday 13 June.

While you’re there: enjoy a stroll through Queen Victoria’s garden at Osborne House and spend a day on the cliffs at The Needles – the Isle of Wight’s famous chalk sea-stacks.

Getting there: Wightlink and Red Funnel both offer combined Bestival and ferry tickets, with special rates for motorbikes, and children aged 15 and under

Resource: 

The Passenger Shipping Association’s website provides comprehensive details of ferry companies and routes from the UK to the near continent, the Channel Islands, Isle of Man, Isle of Wight, Scottish Isles and Ireland.

There are direct ferry routes to Denmark, Norway, Belgium, Holland, France and Spain as well as easy access to Germany and beyond.

Festival fun by ferry

Runaway to the circus while you still can urges Sharron Livingston

Summer means festival season in Montréal, Canada's French and English speaking city.

Right now, the circus is very much in town with big tops and circular buildings replete with athletic action.

Coming up are the Jazz festival and Comedy festival (Just for laughs) and in August is the Montréal World Film Festival that will keep Montréalers entertained throughout the summer months.

On top of that Québec's largest city, part of an archipelago on the Saint-Laurent river,  has a fine gourmet culture, quaint cobbled streets with a lovely array of boutique shops for the discerning shopper.

If you have ever dreamt of running away to the circus but never got round to it then now's your chance.

Montréal's first ever circus festival Montreal Completement Cirque is in town from now to the end of July. Flash acrobatic performances crop up around street corners while big top shows entertain with sensational performances.

Troupes are made of more than 100 circus artists from around the world including Russia, Belgium, Czech Republic, Spain, Wales and of course Canada.

Around Montréal's northwest neighbourhood of Saint-Michel, an official circus region, you can immerse yourself in circus culture and find that contemporary circus is a far cry from the lion tamer and Co Co the Clown.

Thanks to Cirque de Soleil and other pioneers such as the National Circus school circus and the City of Circus Arts La Tohu, a Quebecois expression meaning pandemonium, circus has been turned into cabaret, theatre, and dancing shows.

Cirque du Soleil offer a Big Top sophisticated and highly polished spectacular, Les 7 Doigts de La Main entertain with their cabaret style performances and Cirque Eloize's ID show is vibrant and energetic comprising hoodys and rival gangs where brinkmanship means dare devil acts are entwined into an edgy story.

At La Tohu the audience stands in a circular performance hall custom built for circus arts, while the show goes on above behind and all around them.

The world famous Cirque du Soleil was founded in 1984, two years after Montreal's National Circus School, with a handful of 20 street artists, but now employs 4000 employees including 1000 artists who put on around 20 shows a year around the world.

More Circus

Visit the elegant McCord Museum to see the Dream Weavers Costumes by Cirque du Soleil up close. Costumes are outstlandish and intricately designed and were actually worn by the performers. Entry costs C$13 (around £9).

Learn to trapeze with Cirque Carpe Diem. During the festival the company is running the Trapezium Flying Trapeze Centre in Montréal located Tohu in the circus districts. Just C$5 (just over £3) buys you a few minutes of tuition and a unique trapeeze experience that sees you swinging through the air like a real trouper!

Get fit with a Jakari Fit to Fly class at the MAA, a new gym experience from Reebok and Cirque du Soleil. The choreographed class will see you suspend, bounce and swing your way through a heart pumping workout. Your teacher may well be Nathalie Lambert, a former speed skater who won 4 Olympic medals and numerous world champion titles.

Sight seeing

Take a hike up the 234 metre high Mount Royal. The surrounding Mount Royal park was landscaped by Frederck Law Olmsted, who was also the creator of New York's Central Park. Views from the top take in much of the city and especially the 1976 Olympic stadium - now a casino.

A legacy of the olympics is the Gilles Villeneuve F1 race track that envelopes the casino, and for those who long to have a crack at those chicanes, fee free to get on your bike, your car, skate board or roller skate and break a leg!

For something less racey Montréal's answer to Kew Gardens, its Botanical Gardens is nearby on the corner of in Masonneuve Park. A staggering 185 acres comprising thematic gardens and greenhouses.

Museum lovers should arm themselves with Museum Card (around £27). It is valid for three days and it gives access to 34 city museums. Options include the Montreal Museum of Archaeology and History  and the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts, the Museum for Contemporary Arts

Getting around

Montréal has a fabulously successful automated Bixi bike hire system and this is a popular alternative to public transport. Anyone can hire a bike for 30 minutes or for the day and it is operational 24/7 from May to November. Pick one up from any Bixi station and leave it any any Bixi station. Payment is by credit card. Charges are C$5 a day and the first 30 minutes are free.

Lunch at...

Schwartz's deli is a familiar sight in Montréal and regarded as an institution. It has existed since 1928 as an American-style diner offering  the city's staple lunch time treat - smoked meat. Sandwiches come deep filled with slab of smoked beef (prepared, they say, with a secret recipe). They don't look pretty, but taste absolutely delicious.

Dine at...

La Fabrique. 3609 Rue Saint DenisFrench cuisine is served in this bistro style restaurant. Relax in a rustic backdrop with exposed brick work and lots of wood decor. The menu offers  French cuisine with a twist. If you have ever tried Jos. Louis, a Quebecker's favoured snack, you will love La Fabrique's version: a chocolate fondant, filled with a pastry cream and rich chocolate sauce ($9).

Retail therapyFor exclusive shopping head for Rue St Paul for a fine selection of exclusive designer boutiques. Many have fine arts of work by local artists on sale too.

Or head downtown Rue Ste-Catherine for a host of international chain stores.

Get there

Air Canada and British Airways both fly from Heathrow to Montréal every day.

Where to stay

InterContinental, 360 Rue Saint-Antoine Ouest. This centrally located hotel offers casually chic accommodation with spacious rooms and a cosy wine bar. Doubles from C$220 (£147), excluding breakfast.

Find other hotels in  Montréal

More information* Montréal tourism  * Montréal Completement Cirque

* Cirque du soleil

* Cirque Eloize: * Les 7 Doigts de la Main

Life is a circus in Montreal, Canada

Jakari lesson

Botanical Gardens

Hotter than islands in the Med. finds Paul Youden

The Isle of Wight can best be described as Britain’s Own “sunshine island” with temperatures and sunshine not only amongst the best to be found in the UK but often warmer than places such as Corfu.

This was what I found at the end of May when the local radio station proudly announced on my third day that temperatures would be hotter than islands in the Med!

It was a nostalgic return visit for my wife and I having last visited the Isle of Wight 34 years ago.

What dramatic changes would we find?

Would the island be as “inviting” as we had found it way back in the l970’s. The answer was simple. It was as nice. There had not been too many changes although admittedly there were a few more cars! But one of the joys of the Isle of Wight is that traffic is to some extent “regulated” by space on the three car ferry routes linking the island with the mainland.

The character of the charming small villages scattered throughout the island remained unspoilt. Traditional English tea gardens with cream teas, home made cakes and teapots with “proper” cups and saucers. None of your cheaper, plastic rubbish here!

Godshill with its thatched cottages, tastefully presented visitor shops and “village in miniature” attraction remained a firm favourite and required three separate visits during the week!

The coloured sands of Alum Bay and The Needles had to be a “must” for an all-day visit to the furthermost southerly tip of the Isle of Wight. To work off those “extra inches” added from the cream teas we decided to walk both down and up the 189 steps from the top car park to the beach. For those looking for easy access there is a fairly modern chair-lift which was good value at just £4.00 return. We found you could no longer collect your own coloured sands at beach level but instead had to go to the shop, purchase a container (of various shapes and sizes) and fill your own from tubs of the different colours. You can also purchase ready-filled shapes for little extra money.

One surprising change on the island, possibly due to climate “warming”, was two vineyards. We visited Rossiters on our return drive from Alum Bay as it was conveniently located between Freshwater and Newbridge and were offered a tasting before deciding which – if any – of the red and whites on offer.

From German Dornfelder Red to Madeleine Angevine (1859) there was a good choice to be found and although best described as “young” the wines were quite acceptable and we returned with a “few” bottles! I suppose finding wine on the Island should not have come as that much of a surprise as the Romans were here nearly 2,000 years ago. There is an extremely interesting Roman Villa to be found at Brading and as the Romans enjoyed their wine I could well understand why!

Families will not be disappointed if selecting the Island for their family holiday. With clear blue sea water; famous golden sands; two zoos and numerous “attractions on the Piers at resorts such as Sandown and Shanklin, there is sufficient to keep the youngsters happy.

For steam railway buffs there is the enchanting steam railway and museum at Haven Street and its runs daily from mid-June until mid-September with special days before and after these dates. The track runs from Wootton to the mainline connection at Smallbrook Junction and is a memorable trip back in time.

For Gardeners amongst you the island has plenty to see and a visit to the Garlic Farm at Newchurch is a “must”. No fewer than 40 different pickles and relishes all made from garlic produced on the farm and you can also take home your own garlic growing pack.

My wife and I stayed at Sandown at St. Catherine’s Hotel; just 10 minutes walk from the seafront but located in a quiet part of town with the advantage of having its own car park. Food was excellent and en suite accommodation could not be faulted. After a filling three course dinner it was nice to leave the car behind and walk down to the promenade for some refreshing evening air before retiring for an excellent night’s sleep.

A visit to the Isle of Wight would not be complete without a visit to Queen Victoria’s favourite summer retreat – Osborne House – just outside Cowes. From the car park we took a horse-drawn carriage ride (only 0.50p each) to the main residence and spent an intriguing three hours visiting the various rooms and gardens. It was quite an eye opener to catch up on the history of Queen Victoria, her large family, and how and where various “off-spring” had ended up.

We had chosen the ferry route between Southampton and East Cowes and it was a sad moment when it was time to depart on the Saturday. But the hour-long crossing of the Solent and up Southampton Water gave us plenty of time to reflect on the numerous fascinations the Island holds.

And guess what. As we came into Southampton (West Quay) it was RAINING! And we had just spent a glorious seven days in sunshine and temperatures in the upper 20’s!

Getting there

Wightlink (Wightlink is the largest ferry company on the Isle of Wight) and Red Funnel Isle of Wight Ferries (based in Southampton, and operates two ferry services) operate the ferry service between the English mainland and the Isle of Wight sailing the Southampton to Cowes, Portsmouth to Fishbourne, Lymington to Yarmouth and Portsmouth to Ryde routes.

Accommodation

The Isle of Wight has ample hotels and inns and B&Bs.  Check here for a list of great value places to stay.

Isle of Wight

With all year round sunshine, the Cape Verde island make a great summer or winter holiday destination

They’ve been hailed as a tourist Mecca, a paradise of sun, sea and sand in the Atlantic - but with an Afro-European twist.

Their spectacular beaches have been compared favourably with those in the Caribbean. Some say they are the new Canaries - or at least the Canaries as they were ‘unspoilt’ in the 1960s.

Over the last decade though investors bought up land to erect holiday homes, and there are still some unfinished homes the blight the otherwise gorgeious landscape.

With all the hype you could be forgiven for thinking the Cape Verde Islands - an archipelago of 10 islands and five islets, 1000 miles south of the Canary Islands and just off the west coast of Africa – had suddenly erupted from the sea providing travel junkies with a welcome alternative to the well-trodden trails around the world.

A Portuguese colony until 1975 the Italians, Portuguese and Germans have long discovered the islands’ potential as a holiday destination – and investment opportunity.

On the Island of Sal there is even a walled settlement known locally as ‘The German Village’. Certainly on the islands of Sal and neighbouring Boa Vista the beaches rival those in the Caribbean. As you step onto the golden sand your feet are caressed by its fluffy-softness and met by luscious, luke-warm, turquoise waters.

This is where the best water sports are and ideal for learning how to wndsur of kite surf. Divers often set off from here to see shipwrecks or take the yellow submarine  at Sal - the Neptune - to see underwater views of two 20th century wrecks and a sunken statue of Christ.

Until 2nd November 2006, to get to Cape Verde from Britain you had to fly to Lisbon, and then wait around five hours for a connecting flight. Now Thomson offer direct flights and the entire journey takes only six hours. Plus with only a two-hour time difference there’s no jet lag.

The Cape Verde islands offer year-round sunshine making them the perfect escape for work-weary, sun-deprived Brits. If you want more than sun, sea and sand, though, book an island-hoping package with a specialist tour operator – it’s so much easier than organising domestic transportation independently.

At the island of Sal you can unwind on the beach for a few days and float in the pools of the island’s salt pans. From there it is just short flight to the island of Sao Vincente which is far less touristy.

The capital Mindelo is a faded colonial treasure with cosmopolitan nightlife – which doesn’t really start to liven up until 3am on week nights, later at the weekend.

The Creole culture is very evident in Cape Verde, one of the world's first mixed race society. The Creole now amount to 70 per cent of the population. Portuguese is the offical language and is the written language, but Creole is generally spoken.

Away from town watch, fisherman land their catch at the beach of San Pedro; take a dip with the locals at Crocodile Bay - where lava flows have formed (crocodile-free) rock pools and then end your day with a bird’s eye view of the island at sunset from the peak of Monte Verde.

Walkers should venture on by ferry to Santo Antao to hike the lush hillsides that hide steep river valleys called ribeiras. On arrival you’ll think you’ve come to the wrong place as a dusty, barren landscape greets, however as a rickety pick-up transports you across the mountain peaks from south to north the vegetation resembles a hypnotic botanical garden. Guides will then lead you down the hillsides on ancient paths through sleepy rural villages where shy, curious children pose happily for photographs.

So, are there any negatives to taking a break in Cape Verde? Well, the food is plain and basic and away from the resorts the towns are a little rough around the edges - an unwelcome reality check for those holiday makers who would prefer not to see the locals living in makeshift shacks without mains electricity or running water.

If managed properly tourism could really help to raise the standard of living here. I feel enormously hopeful that this will happen. The Cape Verdeans appear to have a tremendous sense of community and the government a keen sense of responsibility to their people and landscape.

Getting there:The only direct flights from the UK are to Sal and Boa Visa Islands with Thomson or indirect flights with TAP.

Cape Verde Islands - Rising Star

Though The Somme is synonymous with memories of the Great War, Sharron Livingston goes west to find nature at its best.

The Somme, in Picardy, is traditionally, the spiritual haunt for World War I tourism; a place where descendants of fallen soldiers go to find the graves of their father and grandfathers. So entrenched is the Somme in its Great War provenance, that the region would be an unlikely destination for holiday-makers in search of fun and frolics. Anyone driving through the Somme and in particular the towns of Péronne and Albert will see that the region is true to that perception and won't fail to notice, with an awkward gulp and a sinking feeling, the abundant roadside war graves that spring up around every bend, each lovingly tended by the War Graves Commission with obvious reverence.The area’s superb museums on Le Circuit du Souvenir 1914-1918 are eye-watering educationals on different aspects of the Great War.The Somme Museum 1916 in Albert is set in a 250 metre long tunnel converted from an underground air-raid shelter in 1938. In 1916 it housed 1500 people and today its stories focus on trench warfare and the unbelievable loss of life amounting to over 1 million allied soldiers in just five months for a sorry advancement of just 10 miles.The circuit continues to Péronne to The Historial Museum located on the actual site of the Battle of the Somme. Five rooms explain why the conflict happened, the consequences to the countries whose soldiers fought on the Western Front together with eye-opening displays of what they may have experienced, their kit, arms and communication equipment - everything from machine guns right down to minutiae such as message tubes for carrier pigeons that proved vital when telephone and cable systems were disrupted.The most evocative monument on the circuit is the Lutyens designed Thiepval Memorial, the largest British memorial in the world. A huge arched piller has over 73,000 names engraved on its walls, of Commonwealth soldiers with no known graves. Like many I found my own family name on its expansive walls and was piqued with a mix of sorrow for the dead and gratitude for the peace time life I now live.

But all this deathly activity took place inland in the east of the Somme. Go west, however, towards the coast and the ambience of the region is by contrast, literally teeming with life. The wide expanse of soft sand coast stretches from the Baie de L’Authie to the magnificent Baie-de-Somme where visitors gallop on horses, cyclists hire sand bikes and enthusiasts fly their kites. As the tide recedes the landscape looks raw and unkempt as the fauna and flora is revealed. Areas of sands and grass are uncovered and cooks head here to pick a crop or two of Astor Maritime (pigs ears) to jazz up their salads or a handful of Salicorne to pickle at home – when done they taste a little like pickled cucumber.   The nearby bayside resort of Le Crotoy is where Jules Verne was inspired to pen Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea, where fishermen lay their nets for the night and when the tide is in on the south of the Bay at Hourdel, you get the magnificent vision of seals tantalisingly bobbing in and out of the waterThe highlight of the region though is the bird sanctuary, Parc Ornithologique du Marquenterre. Nestling on the fringes of the Bay on land reclaimed from the sea in 1973, are the 260 hectares of marshes, sand dunes, pine forests and meres of the Parc Ornithologique du Marquenterre. The landscape is so diverse it offers habitats for 360 species of birds and 24 different species of wildlife. Its location on the crossroads of the migrationary path makes it the perfect stop-off for thousands of birds including lapwings, little egrets and barnacle geese, oyster catchers and shell ducks.The reserve is open all year round and each season attracts different species. We visited in April and saw white storks who return every year to the same nest to breed and warblers who flew in from South Africa to sing their hearts out in territorial brinkmanship and hopefully to attract a mate.There are 14 viewing points and each with views of different birds in their habitats but they are placed at a distance to remain unobtrusive so a pair of binoculars is useful, though your guide will come equipped with a telescope. Otherwise you can rent them.Viewing point number 1 has a view over the mating parades of a colony of black-tailed godwits and the Avocets (the emblem of the RSBP) whose long legs and long curved beaks give them the stature and tool to catch worms.At number 13 you can see herons nest among 200 pairs of wading birds such as egrets hailing from Mauritania and Senegal. The sight of these elegant winged creatures fluttering over the great black pine tree tops is awesome. Spoonbills are there in the mix too looking funky with spiked hair and spoon shaped beaks.You don’t have to be an avid bird watcher to enjoy the at-one-with-nature experience the park invokes and the almost meditative calm of watching wildlife wend its way unhindered, through the inevitable cycle of nesting and breeding until the wave of new migrants flies in.

The nearby town of Amiens is not particularly lovable but it does have an incredibly beautiful gothic cathedral and a series of ancient waterways called The Hortillonnages. Originally marshland, this has been progressively cultivated through the ages. There are nearly 300 hectares of gardens, some still ongoing business that annually sell their wares by the quayside. But most interesting are the animals and plants that call this peaceful haven their home. Catch a ride on the oar-propelled boat (barques à cornet) and enjoy a meditatively serene hour eyeing up colourful and sometimes bizarrely ornate gardens.Your guide will steer slowly, pointing out the fauna and flora as you drift past small herons, blue-throats (if this looks familiar it’s because you are looking at the cousin of the robin), crested gebes, mute swans, mallards, coots and moorhens as they in turn swim as float amid water lilies or try to hide amid the alders, water irises and cat’s tail reeds that line the banks.With so much life and beauty to enjoy, the Somme does not seem so sombre after all.Getting thereP& O Ferries operate 23 sailings each way between Dover and Calais. Crossings start at £30 each way one way for a car and up to 9 passengers. Ugrade to club class is available for £12 per person.

From Calais pick up the A26 autoroute in the Direction of Boulogne and come off a Rue from where it is well signposted.

Where to StayHotel Mercure Cathedrale21/23 rue FlattersAmiens

Rooms from 93 euros

Seals at the Bay at Hourdel

Thiepval Memorial

Bird Sanctuary - Parc du Marquenterre

Hortillonages in Amiens

Battlefields of the Somme, Picardie

Cycling routes inspired by the Tour de France

For three weeks running from Saturday 3 July to Sunday 25 July 2010, the 97th Tour de France will cover a total distance of 3,600 kilometres.

Cycling's most prestigious event attracts cyclists from around the world.

For those feeling inspired by this year's competitors and those who fancy earning their own yellow jersey, Hotels.com presents a selection of hotels along some of Europe's best cycling routes.

Mountain Stage: Britain

Explore the beautiful scenery of England's rooftop and take your two wheels along the Cumbrian coast. Start at Whitehaven and weave your way along old railway tracks and into the hills through Keswick, Penrith and various Pennine villages.

Stay at the three-star George Hotel situated in the town centre of Penrith, amongst the mix of traditional shops and arcades. This 300 year old building, which features its own restaurant that serves a British menu, provides the ideal base from which to explore the Lake District and Eden Valley by bike. Prices start from £60 per double room per night.

Book the three-star George Hotel

Find cheap flights to Manchester

Flat Stage: Portugal

Soak up the sunshine along the Ecovia do Litoral, the newest cycle route across the Algarve. Starting at the Spanish border, this route takes you along Portugal's beautiful south coast, winding through several nature reserves to Cabo de S. Vicente at the country's southernmost tip.

For a luxurious break after a hard day of cycling, stay at the four-star Pousada de Sagres which is located on a cliff-top overlooking Sagres fort and the lighthouse of Cape St Vincent, the most south-westerly corner of Europe. This hotel also features an outdoor swimming pool where you can unwind and relax after completing this route. Prices start from £96 per double room per night.

Book the four star Pousada de Sagres

Find cheap flights to Faro

Time-trial: Sicily

This route packs plenty in, including the beautiful scenery of the hilltops of Erice, the ports of Marsaia and Selinunte, Roman remains and the Mafia town of Corleone which was featured in The Godfather – all accompanied by rustic Italian food and good wine.

Stay at the four-star Tonnara di Bonagia located in the heart of Valderice close to the Museo Regionale Pepoli, Santuario dell'Annunziatia and Cattedrale di San Lorenzo.

This hotel features an outdoor swimming pool and its restaurant, La Muciara, looks out over the port and serves a traditional Italian menu – ideal for making sure you're fully fuelled and ready for the next stage of this route. Prices start from £123 per double room per night.

Book the four star Tonnara di Bonagia

Find cheap flights to Palermo

Grand Finale: France

For the last 35 years, one of the most beautiful avenues in the world, the Champs-Élysées, has provided the Tour de France with a fantastic location for its grand finale. If you prefer to watch the cycling, rather than actively take part yourself, this year's Tour de France will culminate in Paris on 25 July.

Stay at the four-star Hilton Arc De Triomphe, ideally located just a short walk from all the action on the Champs-Élysées.

When you're not taking in the sights and sounds of cycling's most prestigious event, this hotel features a health club, spa, steam room, sauna, and gym. Prices start from £234 per double room per night.

Book the four star Hilton Arc de Triomphe

Find cheap flights to Paris

Cycling holidays, your own Tour de France?

Cycling holidays, your own Tour de France?

Naomi Tolley visited the private islands of Rangali on a flying visit with Sri Lankan Airways.

This is hedonism in all its indulgent, pleasurable glory — the Conrad Rangali Hilton Resort, the Maldives. From over-water spas with see-through floor views of the Indian Ocean , to seven world-class restaurants offering some of the globe’s finest cuisine. If it’s pampering you’re after, arriving in the Rangali is a bit like climbing the golden stairway to the Dolce Vita.

It’s no wonder A-list celebrities like Kate Moss, Sienna Miller, Denise Van Outen and Katie Price make it their home-away-from-home. In fact, it’s where Katie and Peter chose to honeymoon, and ultimately where she chose for a retreat after their split.

For me it was a bit like being catapulted into a James Bond movie.

Only Daniel Craig wasn’t anywhere to be seen — unfortunately. But there was a barefoot pilot and his shoeless crew waiting to whisk us off to the utopia that is Rangali in a tiny golden seaplane. Not to mention the free back massages to boot on offer in the private waiting room.

And it just got better from there.

“Welcome to paradise,” shouted the pilot jovially, trying to make himself heard above the engine he’d just started. The 20 or so passengers, irritable with excitement, responded only with giggles and smiles which broadened as we neared our destination.

After an hour’s bumpy but beautiful journey over the South Ari Atoll we arrived — in one of the ‘world’s finest resorts’ — and it was everything I had imagined ‘paradise’ would be — and more.

A welcoming, tropical breeze blew across the wooden bridge that links the two private islands of Rangali, serving as a gentle reminder we had stepped into the Southern Hemisphere. I was left speechless by the view.

It’s hard to avoid the ‘white sand, turquoise sea’ cliché here because, well, Rangali is that living cliché. My first view of the islands was so cliché-perfect it was almost ethereal.

So, here I go with the clichés: white sand beaches as soft as sugar ring the island, melting into a warm clear blue Indian Ocean and hammocks hang happily, strung up between two palm trees. Inland the sand winds its way along meandering paths, bordered by tropical flowers, which lead to yet another beach, or one of the resort’s fine facilities.

There is little more to do here than relax, be pampered and wallow in self-indulgence. If you’re uncomfortable with hedonism, this really isn’t the place for you.

Sensing my state of awe, as I stood on the bridge enjoying the breeze which had now tousled my hair into a mess, a crew member, still shoeless, said: “Whale sharks pass through here every year. It’s one of the only places in the world you can swim with them — I did it last year and wow! It was one of the best experiences I have had in my life.”

Had I died and gone to heaven?

Unfortunately there was nothing permanent about this state of ecstasy which was rapidly taking a hold. My stay here was short and sweet — just two nights. But it was enough to experience a taste of what the Hilton resort has to offer.

To stay any longer can come with a hefty price-tag. Jordan had been here just the night before our arrival, staying at the £2,800-a-night villa where her and Peter spent their honeymoon — complete with a rotating remote-controlled circular bed which turns to face the setting sun, a glass floor beneath the dining table and an outdoor Jacuzzi.

Driven by some weird curiosity to delve into the private life of a celebrity, I did, of course, have to snap up the opportunity to visit that very villa and sit on that circular, rotating bed. “How the other half lives. It really doesn’t get more hedonistic than this!” I thought.

But you don’t have to be an A-list celebrity to get your foot in the door here. There is a range of accommodation, from Beach Villas with views of the ocean, private terraces and unique outdoor garden-bathrooms; to the kind of villa on stilts more akin to the superstar lifestyle — and wallet.

I stayed in a detached Spa Water Villa, one of a small collection of wooden villas up to 500 metres out to sea. Surrounded by water on all sides and with their own private treatment rooms and a decking area with private steps down into the ocean, they are the perfect place to stay if de-stressing and retreating are top of the agenda.

The sound of water lapping underneath your feet and all around you — and with glimpses of sunrises, sunsets and the Indian Ocean from every corner of your bathroom, bedroom, dressing room and decking area — staying in the villas is therapy in itself.

But if you need that little bit more to wind down, the Spa Water Villas jut gracefully off a boardwalk linked to the magical Spa Retreat, forming part of a holiday destination in itself.

Set on stilts over the lagoon at the tip of the main island, Destination Spa offers a holistic spa experience that combines therapies, cuisine and holistic and lifestyle classes. It’s a favourite with Kate Moss, apparently.

Guests can choose from weekly wellness programs which combine daily treatments, fitness and wellness activities in conjunction with nutrition and naturopathic consultations.

In addition the Spa Retreat hosts regular retreats with visiting specialists and instructors from around the globe — from Neuromuscular Massage Therapy to Inspiring Yoga and Detoxification.

If that isn’t enough, there is a spa experience on the other island, in a location fit enough to rival any other spa setting in the world: The Over Water Spa.

This epitomises barefoot luxury and the ultimate island hideaway — with three of the suites boasting glass-bottomed floors. I had a lethargy-inducing hot stone massage as I drifted off to somewhere that felt like sleep, while gazing through the glass floor at tropical marine life, happily swimming in the waters beneath the therapists bare feet.

They say it’s quite easy to get busy doing nothing, and I became a professional at doing just that within 24 hours. It’s also quite surprising how relaxation and tropical breezes can whip up such an appetite.

But with seven world-class restaurants and award-winning executive chef David Laval at the helm, it’s a food-lovers dream to satiate the largest of hungers; not to mention the 10,000 bottles of wine in the underground Wine Cellar and the resort’s resident sommelier, Michael Arcena which makes it an Eden for wine connoisseurs.

There is also the Ithaa restaurant — the world’s first underwater eatery set five metres below sea-level with 180 degrees panoramic views; the Wine Bar where you can sample 101 different cheeses; the relaxed Atoll Market restaurant; and Vilu with its Martini bar featuring 80 different types of designer Martini cocktails.

We, of course, had to sample the James Bond cocktail — nothing could be more fitting. And that was how we spent our last night in Rangali: barefoot but in dinner dresses; sipping James Bond cocktails and marvelling at the sunset and the natural beauty of this place — a stunningly beautiful archipelago which, if some forecasts predict correctly, could sadly be completely underwater within a decade.

It’s something of a paradox, that only money can buy you time in Rangali as a guest, when the real beauty of the place could come for free — the picture-postcard scenery, addictive climate and jaw-dropping marine life which are all nature’s own.

But if you have about £2,000 each to spare on a holiday and seven nights free, then I couldn’t think of a better way to invest in an experience, especially when time is ticking on how accessible or visible these islands are going to be in the coming years.

FACTS

Sri Lankan Airlines are the only scheduled airline to offer direct flights from London to the Maldives .

The Airline fly four times a week from London Heathrow to Male.

Fares start at £560 plus tax per person.

Flight Times: 11 hours 15 minutes

Kuoni offers seven-nights in a Beach Villa at the Conrad Maldives Rangali Island including breakfast, return flights with Sri Lankan Airlines from Heathrow, seaplane transfers in resort, access to the VIP lounge in Male airport on departure and an airport lounge in the UK from £2079 per person based on two sharing travelling in June 2010.

Conrad Maldives Rangali

Find other places to stay on the Maldives

Barefoot luxury at Rangali Islands, Maldives

Barefoot luxury at Rangali Islands, Maldives

Barefoot luxury at Rangali Islands, Maldives

Barefoot luxury at Rangali Islands, Maldives

The coveted Monaco Grand Prix takes place between 13-16th May. Get motoring on your plans so you don"t miss out says Formula One fanatic Simon Maurice

The jewel in the crown of any Formula One season is the Monaco Grand Prix, which takes place this year over the weekend of May 13-16th. The streets of the famous principality have played host to the Formula One world for eighty years.The Monaco Grand Prix also has the (well-justified) reputation of attracting the rich and famous but every year tens of thousands of ordinary race fans flock there to view the sight and (incredible) sound of 200mph projectiles dicing with each other inches away from the barriers in what is almost gladiatorial style combat.Monaco is a race that everyone even remotely interested in motor racing should do at least once – and there are travel packages that can be done on any scale of budget – from value packages organised by the specialist motor racing tour operators through to hospitality and accommodation on one of the large yachts in Monaco harbour.On the organised tour side, Thoms Cook offer packages, from around £400 for a three day stay through to around £4000 per person, while Flight Options offer a VIP-style day trip to Monaco including flight, champagne breakfast, lunch, and dinner for £799 per person.Because of the huge variety of viewing options tickets are normally in addition to the cost of the tour, so you pays your money and you takes your choice but a grandstand ticket is essential (unless you are yacht based) and they start from around £100 for race day (practice and qualifying days are substantially cheaper) and go up to around £400.If you do want to make it a once-in-a-lifetime experience and mix with the glitterati on a yacht in the harbour, again there are a large number of options.

One company who has been successfully hosting guests at the Monaco Grand for a number of years is F1 who operate a number of the Sunseeker yachts in the Monaco harbour. They offer two day full hospitality packages on yachts positioned near the F1 Drivers’ paddock which include grandstand seats by the famous Rascasse corner. Some accommodation on board is available and otherwise can be arranged if desired, as can flights and transfers. Packages start from around £2800.

Online travel agents also offer packages. A package with Lastminute starts at £606.62 per person and includes a three night stay at 3* hotel Scribe in Nice based on twin/double room sharing, daily Breakfast, ticket for Sunday’s race, Transfers hotel/circuit/hotel by private shuttle bus on Sunday and a group leader.

There are a huge variety of people who operate trips and tours to Monaco and people come into the market every year attracted by its fame and glamour and looking to make a fast buck.

Make sure that you book with an outfit who have Monaco experience and if in doubt, enquire.Simon Maurice's Top three tips to ensure your Monaco experience:

1. Although you will find ladies in high heels and gents in couture shoes, it’s better to wear something sensible on your feet, as road closures often make a lot of walking a necessity.2. Make sure to take something waterproof as Monaco has had its fair share of wet races over the years and take a hat or head covering of some sort as you will need it whether it is sunny or rainy.3. Earplugs/ear defenders are a necessity! - you won’t believe how noisy a Formula One car around the streets of Monaco is, until you experience it first hand, by which stage it will be too late.

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To get to Monaco, fly to Nice, then catch a bus/train/helicopter.

Monaco Grand Prix

Monaco - The Grand Prix

Monaco - The Grand Prix

Monaco - The Grand Prix

Paul Youden goes down memory lane with the railways of yesteryear

It may well have been the late Fred Dibnah, MBE, who has been responsible for the revival of all things steam but steam engine rallies as well as steam railways are pulling in the crowds.

Up and down the UK regular steam events can attract upwards of 20,000 visitors over a weekend as young and old alike flock for a nostalgic trip down memory lane.Kids seem to love all things steam. Perhaps it is the sheer size of the “iron horses”, as the North American Indians used to refer to railways, or maybe the smell of the smoke, the clanking of the chains, or simply the power that these monsters of steam have which provides a fascination. Traction engines may be driving round and round a muddy field in circles.  There may also be other attractive attractions like barn engines pumping water from one bucket into another (with flowers painted on them), old-fashioned lorries and cars parked in a field, and rusty old iron and scrap motor parts for sale. Whatever it is, steam enthusiasts have formed preservation clubs, opened up disused railway lines, re-built (as did Fred Dibnah) these powerful beasts and staged weekend events which often prove more popular than a wild life park or a trip to the seaside.There are steam railways from Kent to Devon and Cornwall, Dorset to the Lake District and Yorkshire Moors. The Kent and East Sussex Steam Railway is one of the most popular in the south. The steam railway on the north York Moors which runs into Whitby has been used in many period films such as Heartbeat. Steam Engine Rallies are held from March to October up and down the English Shires. From a display of up to 500 steam exhibits at Southport to the north Yorkshire Vintage Stream Engine Rally.I was at the Preston Steam Rally (between Sandwich and Canterbury) at the end of June for their 8th annual event held in idyllic hot and sunny weather when giant steam rollers to a miniature steam railway; steam powered organs, had visitors  flocking through the gates from early morning and by Sunday teatime over 20,000 people had witnessed spectacles of steam driven ploughs, steam driven lorries and a portable “donkey” boiler once used to provide power for warships while in dock having their own engines overhauled!Even modern day warships rely on power! The latest nuclear powered submarines used the heat generated by the nuclear reactor to produce steam which then powers the turbines for “monsters of the deep” Nuclear Power Station also depend on steam to drive the turbines which in turn produce electricity for our homes. This can best be described as a “fascinating connection between the industrial revolution and the science-fiction nuclear world”, words from Michael Cates who is one of the foremost event organizers of steam events in the south.Steam Rallies provide a variety of additional attractions such as gun dog displays and vintage cars and motor cycles. The Preston Rally near Canterbury also has a wonderful full sized and old fashioned fun fair complete with carousel and horses, the Wall of Death, Dodgems and Big Wheel.  But one of the favourites has to be the huge street organs, once a familiar sight on the streets of Amsterdam in Holland or Antwerp in Belgium. Their music rings out across the fields and the carefully constructed figures play symbols, drums and trumpets to accompany the organ music.www.steamfair.co.uk

Steam nostalgia on the railways

Steam nostalgia on the railways

Steam nostalgia on the railways

Steam nostalgia on the railways